It feels like everyone talks about skin-care actives, but what are they?
Here, cosmetic chemists give a simple skin-care active definition.
Yet somehow, the term active is kind of elusive, no?
What, exactly, is an active ingredient?
This could be brightening, soothing, reducing visible lines or wrinkles, or reducinghyperpigmentation, for example.
But the term isnt regulated, so the specific way the ingredient works can vary.
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To be honest, there isnt a standard test that qualifies an ingredient as an active, Lu says.
How do you know how potent an active is?
To start, every active ingredient has a different ideal potency, and more isnt necessarily always better.
For example, theres a lot of data onniacinamidesactivity between two percent to five percent, Lu says.
Its a decent bet that a brand that has a product with niacinamide in that neighborhood will work.
This is very difficult for a consumer to really know, Lu explains.
There are two metrics we typically use: transparent concentrations and clinical testing.
Even then, looking at concentrations is not always straightforward as it seems.
So whatcanyou do to check into how legit your skin-care active is?
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Wed recommend looking to clinical tests done by the brand to give you a better picture, Lu says.
We give brands major brownie points for conducting clinicals because these tests can get expensive.
Other notable actives includehyaluronic acid,BHAs,peptides, andceramides.
See how your skin responds.
With or without active ingredients, you should use a sunscreen daily.
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