I never dreamed I’d surfnow it’s my new favorite sport.
Here’s how I conquered waves and built confidence my first time surfing.
As a paddled back after (another) failed attempt, he told me Get out of your head.
And he was right.
My fear of falling off the board was literally making me fall off the board.
In that moment, McGee felt like more than just a surf instructor and closer to a life coach.
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His words could easily be applied to so many areas in my life.
I just had toget out of my head.
I had also never even dreamed of trying the sport until the trip was planned.
I got my first chance during a week at Waikiki and becoming one with the water and waves.
Im not particularly thestrongestswimmer.
But swimming athletically and efficiently isnt my strong suit.
Surfers look so cool, confident, and strong.
In my head, I felt like I could replicate that.
My inexperience (and teetering confidence) with water sports wasnt stopping me from the challenge.
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Surfers look so cool, confident, and strong.
In my head, I felt like I could replicate that in some way.
I am a Virgo, after all!
Trying new things and learning to master them is kinda my thing.
Plus, research shows that new experiences are good for our emotional health, according toUW Medicine.
So for surfing, the first step was finding the perfect place to take a lesson.
I arrived at the Ohana Surf Project homebase 15 minutes before the start of my lesson.
A group of us sat down for a quick orientation and water safety presentation.
Things you do need:balance,upper-body strength, and an aloha attitude.
Then we loaded on the surf school bus to head to the beach.
The water on Waikiki beach is so beautiful it looks fake.
Crystal clear blue, white sand, and soft waves crashing in the Pacific Ocean…a total dream.
I couldnt wait to jump in.
Meet my coach, Kainoa McGee
After hopping off the bus I was introduced toKainoa McGee.
Born and raised in Hawaii, McGee has been a surf instructor and competitor for more than a decade.
The first thing we did was a few exercises to activate our surfing muscles.
Now this is something I know how to do!
Itsalmostlike aburpee, with a few modifications.
On land, I was nailing it!
But could I replicate it in the water?
On land, I was nailing it!
But could I replicate it in the water?
I was buzzing with excitement and nerves.
We waded in and immediately got crashed by a wave.
It was a hot and sunny day; the water felt cool and refreshing.
I climbed onto the surfboard and paddled into the water.
Easier said than done.
The water felt good, but I was determined to get up on that board.
it’s possible for you to do this.
Get out of your head.
Get out of your head.
The next wave came rushing toward us and he gave me a push.
The sound of water whooshing under my board rang in my ears.
It felt like I was floating.
Then I heard McGee yell, Up!
I carefully lifted my chest, swung my leg forward, and stood up.
I rode my first wave all the way.
I could hear McGee and the instructors cheering for me.
Plus, there were plenty of surf shops that offered board rentals.
Finally I asked how much it cost to rent a board.
The employee looked me up and down and said, Have you ever even surfed before?
That didnt answer my question, and what exactly does a surfer look like, anyway?
I told him yes, I have surfed before.
Then he tried pushing me into buying a surfing lessons package, instead of answering my original question.
Well I guess you might rent one, before walking away.
There was no way I was giving them business.
I walked out of the surf shop pretty discouraged.
Did I belong in this space?
Am I in over my head to get out there and try on my own?
I felt imposter syndrome taking over and headed back to the Airbnb.
Did I belong in this space?
Am I in over my head to get out there and try on my own?
I told my mom about the exchange, and naturally, she went into outraged mom mode.
Youre getting back in that water!
She made it her personal mission to help me find another surf shop that was more welcoming.
After a short walk, we stumbled upon a board rental stand atBillabong.
A woman at the front desk greeted us with a friendly smile.
After studying for 30 minutes, I felt ready to catch my own waves solo.
There was no push from McGee, but I could hear him saying, Get out of your head.
Youve been doing this your whole life.
I carefully lifted my body, standing up on my surfboard and holding the position.
I was doing it.
I rode the wave until it died and my board became still.
Plopping back down, I could hear a round of applause from some beach-goers on the sand.
Take that, surf shop guy.
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