We asked perfume experts: What makes a vanilla fragrance treacly versus tasteful?
Plus, their favorite vanilla scents.
fragrance director ofGood ChemistryandIllume
Yes, vanilla is back and better than ever.
Theres a comfort that references the kitchen and hearth here with food-punch in scents.
Theres also a treat aspect to vanilla which is cozy…
It references youth and yes, has this delectable quality.
beauty columnist for The New York Times and founder of the sustainable fragrance brand Ellis Brooklyn.
Despite its comeback, vanilla is undoubtedly a polarizing scent.
You either love it, or you hate it.
Theres a little vanilla trauma, says Greta Pagel, fragrance director atGood ChemistryandIllume.
Its almost like our tastes have changed.
Thats where I think people get divided.
So what makes a vanilla perfume or candle tasteful, not treacly?
Its the quality of the vanilla but also the blend, says Shapiro.
What can still be surprising about an ingredient that is so well-loved and so much used?
What makes a vanilla fragrance good?
beauty columnist for The New York Times and founder of the sustainable fragrance brand Ellis Brooklyn.
The differentiating factor between the two, experts say, comes from the ingredients.
This is actually closer to the smell of the original vanilla absolute, which is moodier.
While naturals are preferred, theyre not nearly as sustainable or affordable compared to synthetics and other raw sources.
Regardless, its the art of the perfumer to balance each fragrance, says Lottiau.
In the fragrance formula, each ingredient has a purpose.
If theres too much of an ingredient, you will see it be out of balance.
The reinvention of gourmand is a very grown-up pop in of gourmand, he says.
You take the same sugary vanilla syrups youd put on pancakes and you change the texture.
Aside from a products final name and label, its texture is reexamined with the ingredients themselves.
Though subtle, ricedoeshave a sweetness to it (think: coconut rice and rice pudding).
It has a texture that is not normally encapsulated into vanillin, says Guggenbuhl.
Theyre not so literal
The root of much vanilla disdain stems from the scents of yore being too on-the-nose.
The only thing Pink Sugar smelled like was a cone of cotton candythere were no base or top notes.
Ingredient quality also makes a difference in how luxe a scent comes across.
Todays sugary scents are more complex and counterbalanced withotherscents to make them more grown up.
Tl;DrVanilla is, well, vanilla.
Its treacly, its one-note.
Apotheke, Saffron Vanila Candle $44.00
Like a spring day bursting with sweetness.
The best is sandalwood, says Guggenbuhl.
It has the creaminess and woodsy parts that marry really well with vanilla.
Solar is another vanilla trend that can take on an earthy tone.
These notes have are meant to exude a warmth and light, like youre basking in sunshine.
Key notes include orange flower, cedar atlas, stryax resins, tonka, and musk.
Citrus vanilla
Creamsicle fans: Listen up.
Prepare for vanilla to get a tangy twist.
Weve seen [brands] put vanilla into a fresh direction that is quite new, says Guggenbuhl.
Dark vanilla
And finally, theres the dark side of vanilla.
The best example of this for me isInfusion de Vanilleby Prada, says Guggenbuhl.
It gives you this sophisticated, smoky, daring, mischievous side to vanilla thats really interesting.
Other key notes include rich plum, cashmere wood, and earthy musk.
Now that its back, experts arent sure vanilla will everor everdidreally go away.
Lottiau explains vanilla is an imprinting smell, a scent deeply tied to lifelong memories and feelings of comfort.
Fragrance is all about emotion and memories, she says.
Vanilla is reassuring and envelopingits an ingredient that makes us feel good.
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